Nepal’s government has a serious conflict of interest. Everest 2019: Near Death on Annapurna. Provides radios (walkie-talkies) to all Sherpa and guides. To those who realised their goal of reaching the summit, we congratulate you. Climbing should be an experience that makes you feel good about yourself for having accomplished something by and for yourself with little assistance. By doing so they set themselves up to fail. * Logistics by SST, however Seamus + 2 others in the team were guided by Noel Hanna (team within a team). Mingma Dorjee Sherpa became what he thinks is the first Nepal educated Engineer to summit. Only time will tell. But this year, Cyclone Fani messed up a lot of plans. Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. 2. It was a heartbreaking experience that I never want anyone to go through thus my ask for donations to non-profits where 100% goes to them, and nothing ever to me. So at 28,000′ the body still feels like its at 25,000′. Chris Tomer of Tomer Weather Solutions commented on the jet stream situation: Jet stayed locked on summit this past week but should weaken significantly May 12-15. Madison Mountaineering will also be there again. The notorious jet stream was “wobbly” in the words of Chris Tomer of Tomer Weather Solutions. The two largest advocates of this method, Alpenglow and Furtenbach, had good success with their members who took this approach so look for it to spread to others. With the season over, the biggest question is what, if anything, will Nepal do about the crowds, the experience of the climbers and the qualifications of the guides. This is not new, in 2016 Makalu Adventures admitted they helped Indians Dinesh and Tarkeshwari Rathod alter their summit photos to show them on Everest’s summit when in fact they never summited. Of course, it’s possible because a travel agent has organised all your logistics, a sherpa team has fixed all the ropes, your personal Sherpa pitches your tent, makes your food and prepares your water. We knew there would be hundreds on both normal routes, but a bevy of climbers were trying something special or make a statement. With all these deaths on other 8000-meter peaks before the true push began Everest, I became quite concerned that we were seeing the inexperience/unqualified combination on center stage. Now, I fully recognize that everyone has to learn, but not on an 8000-meter mountain! - Wardogs vs. Evergreen (7:1) Game 2 - 3 Okt. The past is the future. It colluded with Cyclone Fani to delay the ropes reaching the summit complicated by some bureaucratic delays on using a helicopter to transport gear to Camp 2 on the Nepal side. It’s easy to place blame and deny responsibility, no matter how shallow. Note: If someone have any special projects example solo climbing, without supplementary oxygen , without Sherpa guide and high altitude service and any world record projects then these climbers should apply special qualifications of climbing history to be qualified . Nadhira Alharthy summited, first Omani woman to achieve the 7 summits She was with Madison Mountaineering, Nelly Attar summited with Madison Mountaineering, Joyce Azzam from Lebanon summited with Madison Mountaineering, Sherief Elabd from Egypt summited with Madison Mountaineering. 11. He was both an experienced and talented mountaineer with expeditions in Argentina, Alaska, Africa, Pakistan, Kyrgyzstan, Nepal and extensively across India. They often don’t even acknowledge it on their social media where they brag about how many times the owner has summited and next year’s trip with “excellent success.” If you believe their website, perhaps you deserve your fate. You are finished because you have no experience, haven’t bothered to learn to look after your self, certainly not others. With 11 fatalities on … Expedition operator should provide at least 6 bottles of Oxygen Cylinder for members and 3 Oxygen Cylinder for each climbing Sherpa with one extra set of oxygen mask and regulator willing to attempt Everest. I found a limit of mine and I blew its doors off I feel. Courtesty of Nims Purja. Get references from objective people. My take away re Everest: It Is What It Is. Add the effects on the family’s afterwards when their minimally experienced climber doesn’t make it back home due to something bad happening that they were not prepared for. This was around 4-5am. They had trained furiously for a year on this no O’s, no ropes, no support effort. As a Taiwanese, I was kind of shocked when you first mentioned earlier in one of the coverage articles there was a Taiwanese among the 8000s deaths; then I thought it was probably an error as nobody in Taiwan is talking about this. They must use good judgment so as not to put themselves in danger or their teammates or support. Politicians and government officials funding these ventures need to understand and get their credentials verified. Learn on lower peaks with proper support. Again greed for money has ruined a good thing. The Nepal aviation authority announced that flights between Kathmandu and Luka would not be allowed for the majority of each day in April and May due to construction on the runway at Tribhuvan Airport (TIA). At any rate, I hope to be with you again in the spring of 2020 Alan. And in hindsight, should he have followed his gut and turned back? Note: I know there were others, so please feel free to add in the comments. Climbers must be self sufficient and exercise personal responsibility. 4. “I find it interesting that some of the largest, newest and oldest Western operators remain silent on the issues this year content to run their operation next year silently approving of what is happening”, Or perhaps they know there’s no point is complaining and miring themselves in needless drama when they know as well as you do that the Nepalese government isn’t going to take action. For the last two years I’ve spent 8 weeks with you…..mid April through early June. We had the good fortune to connect with some of the world’s best high-altitude climbers & skiers alongside us this season. The deposit amount shall not be refunded if any of the company did not follow the guideline, rules and regulation of DOT. I am not one of the big operators on Everest, nor do I intend to make Everest a yearly trip. I’ve been checking back periodically for this! As this photo shows from last year, the area is narrow, so even having two ropes might not have accommodated such traffic, inspire of what Nepal’s tourism department is spinning into the media. First on the 16th, then on the 21st and finally on the 23rd with me and my group. They decided to acclimatize on Pumori at 23,494-feet/7,160-meter that lords over EBC. History has shown the low-cost guides – both “Western” and Nepali offer an inferior level of service, increased risk and lower summit rates. It was challenging my mental capacity at altitude and the unknown of that capability that was tested. And this now applies to all 8000-meter peaks. The wind and snow picked up at night and not having clear goggles I didn’t think to put any on. Last week and through the weekend, seven died on the world’s highest mountain. 7. Perhaps this was just my small price to pay to realize a 15 year dream. You have seen this up close time and time again. If I were not going for any records checking off all the 8000s there is no way Everest would have an appeal to me after this year. Svati Kirsten Narula Mar 29, 2019 Most of us will never climb Everest, but the mountain still looms large in our minds every spring when hundreds of hearty souls travel there for adventure. I have met some who are there because their family has raised the money to send them there and the climber feels a heavy weight of pressure to reach the summit even when they realise they are in over their head and don’t want to be there. I’m going to read it all slowly and carefully. And Guy Cotter of Adventure Consultants also offers his ideas on “how to fix Everest”. The climbing season was closed in March 2020, due to the COVID-19 pandemic and potential outbreaks at base camp. Several high end operators swear by this technique of pre-acclimitizing at home before arriving in Asia. Team size of no more than 12 clients. Well done to each climber, their Sherpa and guides. On the heels of the rope fixer’s Everest summit, one of the strongest Nepali companies, Mingma Sherpa’s Imagine Nepal, took his own rope fixers and members to the roof of Lhotse for the first summits in the Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse horseshoe. Only you, the client, can actually ensure this happens. It was time to climb! of episodes: 19: Production; Running time: 60 Minutes: Release; Original network: Discovery Channel: Original release Other deadly scenarios were playing out on Cho Oyu, Annapurna, Makalu, Kanchenjunga, and Lhotse. They insist it was just a factor of how successful their business is. Well done my friend. Many Himalayan mountains—including Everest—are at peak climbing season, with the window of good weather between late April and the end of May. Each expedition operating company have to deposit $50,000 USD in the account of Department of Tourism for 5 years(renewal), who are willing to apply for the permit and organizing expedition for any 8000m peak, as security deposit. Not that I knew of Kevin. Its well with a read but these were the highest for me and potential reason for the increase in deaths of Indian climbers: Lacking self sufficiency and climbing experience: If you look at the bio-data of most Everest aspirants, they do a basic mountaineering course, a climb of Stok Kangri (a 6000 m trekking peak in Ladakh) maybe some other easy 6000 metre peak and think they are ready to climb Everest. So I can tell the real story, of what happened on Everest May 23, 2019.There are so many emotions of joy, relief, sadness, disbelief and so on. ), Summit Fever driving poor decision making, Bad weather (mainly high winds and frostbite), Few summit windows forcing people to go on same day, Pace slows down forcing people to use more oxygen and longer time on summit push increasing fatigue, Support not have language and communication skills to turn a client back before trouble makes it irreversible, oxygen is being used at too high a flow rate to last, support lacking adequate  training to recognize early signs of altitude related illness. The congestion slowed ascents, and … At … Please visit his site to support his project to climb all 14 8000ers in 7 months. It was published on May 24, 2019 in The Times India. Everyone knows climbing Everest is a dangerous game. In my opinion, I would not call this a successful expedition at all. Everything is OK.. In fact they have a public relations program already underway “Visit Nepal 2020″. Clients pay guides to get them back home, not to summit. Our team was involved in life saving care for patients with multi system trauma and acute myocardial infarction and spent many nights awake and attending to sick climbers. Paul has climbed and trained in the Alps and completed expeditions from Alaska to Antarctica. 11 people have died in their attempts to reach the summit of Mt Everest, making 2019 the fourth deadliest climbing season on record. If there are to be changes it will take a unified voices starting with the guides – old and new. Falls, are also a symptom of inexperience and perhaps poor support. Chris Bonington talks about it in his 1979 Annapurna climb and I relate to it. Same for disappearance. Still a worthy goal in my mind for those wiling to put in the prep work. Devoid of jams & I … Including Everest if it rates, what would you say are the top 7 most difficult peaks to climb? Nepal needs to get their act together and stop thinking $$$ . Last year was a record year with 802 total summits from all routes and I look for that record to be broken in 2019. However, several extremely qualified climbers also lost their lives, many choosing to forgo supplemental oxygen. Two widows of fallen Sherpas, Nima Doma Sherpa, 36,  and Furdiki Sherpa, 42 wanted to summit to honor, Roxanne Vogel targeted summit Everest from the Tibet side in 14 days home to home. Eleven people died on the world's tallest mountain this year, most within the past week or so, as images of lines of people bottlenecked near the summit circulated on social media. Kami Rita Sherpa, 49 from Thame, wanted to break his own most Everest summit record of 22. In any case, they get carried away by the glamour of Everest or the story of an underprivileged person taking up a formidable challenge. Please join me to end Alzheimer's by joining the fight! The Himalayan Times printed several quotes from Sherpas commenting on their customers including this one: “Traffic jam didn’t kill people on Mt Everest. Others, came home a few pounds lighter but feeling immense personal satisfaction. Add in the attitude, judgment become impaired so an inexperienced client has to depend on their support system of Sherpas, teammates and guides to monitor their performance. Quite. If mountaineering is about challenging yourself, enjoying the pristine views in the crisp mountain air and practicing the skills of art that excite you, then most of these people who go to die on Everest would be climbing these challenging and exciting objectives. However, for some reason, probably pressure for China, Nepal announced a big clean-up program underwritten by Western sponsors (Coco-Cola, WWF, etc.) The golden rule is to always be clipped into the safety line when its available. Other teams used Lobuche, a 20,075-foot / 6,119-meter “trekking peak”, and a few used Island Peak ( 6,189 m/20,305 ft) but most stayed with the proven formula of making multiple “rotations” up and down Everest eventually getting their ticket to the top punched at Camp 3 around 23,000’/7000m on the Lhotse Face. There were close to 100 Indians on the mountain this year (both South and North). Also Phinjodorjee Sherpa, Kami’s oldest son and brother of Minga summited with them. Everest 2019 – Seamus Lawless & Jenny Copeland Interview. Well respected Belgian meteorologist Marc De Keyser told me on May 15 that the next widow was tight and the 23/24 were next up: I am pretty sure that on the 17th and the 18th wind will be far out of limits, where on the 19th the wind becomes again a bit weaker but still generating an uncomfortable feeling.This feature dominates the weather conditions over the Himalayas for this period, probably till the 23rd or 24th of May. They have used this model on Everest and K2. Official final numbers for the 2019 Everest season have yet to come in, but it seems likely that this year will be a record season in terms of summiteers. Thanks Tom, while this is a tough time, I still feel Everest is a worthy goal for the well prepared. I suggest they take the long, not the short, view. I am proud of all those who summited in a difficult year. And that is irresponsible. Videos shared on social media showcased climbers waiting in long queues to advance up the mountain. Kuntal Joisher with his summit from Tibet has now summited from both Nepal and South. The jet is then forecasted to return on May 16-18. Kevin Hynes reached 8300m on the northeast ridge (Tibet) side for the summit day push with 360 Expeditions, but turned around on summit day and descended to the North Col (7000m) camp accompanied by Sherpa guides from his team. I posted this during the season and still find it happening so once again, I find it so disingenuous and perhaps deceptive for those guides who have loyal climbers die under their contract to continue to post self-adulation of their company performance and never acknowledge a death under their watch and immediately promote their next climb. In February, 2019 China made a few bold announcements designed to assure the world that they were competent custodians of their side of Everest. That makes a great story. of seasons: 3: No. Everyone hoped it would be like last year with 11 straight days enabling a record number of summits. Thank you so much, Alan, for all your hard work over the Everest climbing season; for this very thorough analysis of events; and for doing it in support of Cure Alzheimer’s Fund and other dementia-related charities, as well as for the sheer love of writing about mountaineering. Himex’s Russell Brice, uncharacteristically  quiet recently, had a small team from the UK. This was his 9th summit and I trusted him. 65 Degrees (who you quoted) who are British Royal marines were 6 with one American guide. At South col the climber is advised to get down to Base camp safely, go home and come back and try again next year. I don’t claim to be a cultural expert but I did find interesting this somewhat harsh opinion piece by Amit Chowdhury, who is a veteran of numerous Himalayan mountaineering expeditions and ex-Principal of a Mountaineering and Skiing Institute who was awarded the Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award in 2014 for his lifetime contribution to Adventure Sports. Not sure what else there is to say, so I’ll sign off #Everest2019 with this video from Martin with Russell Brice’s Himex team tells it all first hand: Next up is K2 starting in late June with summits expected in late July. Guy Cotter CEO of the New Zealand based Adventure Consultants weighed in on the previous commentary and added his own experiences: It is great to see balanced commentary coming from the top of the Indian mountaineering cadre. This happens all of sudden, this is why they buy Insurance/ Rescue arranges yes? Nihal died at Camp IV after sherpas rescued him from the balcony area. On the surface, these are all good ideas but it’s unlikely they will ever be adopted by the government. Leading up to Everest I did my homework and I trained non stop endlessly for 10 months. I did my best to look at all sides but the facts tell the story. There were two deaths. They jumped into what was forecasted as a two day window hoping to avoid the crowds that were sure to seize the next one, no matter when or how short. Many, many climbs are much harder than Everest including most of the other 8000ers and a ton of the 6,000 and 7,000 meter peaks around the world. They are irresponsible compared to other countries with mountains that are used for tourism. It becomes a repeating sad scenario every year. The fatalities this season are…. It’s great to be garlanded in your local area by your local Member of Parliament, among a group of equally ignorant folks and show picture of you proudly standing on top of Everest and with the National Flag and perhaps land a Government job or get promoted from constable to a Sub-Inspector. It all depends on the route, including on Everest! We cannot see future to stop anyone, can you give a point why I should stop him when he was climbing with team and his Sherpa reportedly in normal way! This has been the pattern the past few years. We knew there were many teams targeting that morning and the questions were: could the route accommodate them, would the inexperienced climbers slow the pace and how would the inadequate support manage a crisis?
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